If you own a period home, you probably know the feeling. The heating's been on for hours, and one end of the house is still cold.
Old homes have character (but they also have draughts).
Some rooms get so uncomfortable in winter that you eventually stop using them.
You start avoiding parts of the house because they're too cold, too noisy, or too expensive to heat properly.
You run the heating longer, pay more, and still don't feel quite warm enough.
Eco design, done well, keeps your house warmer in winter, and cooler in summer. It becomes cheaper to run, and liveable in every room (no matter the time of year).
The challenge is that older homes need a different approach to new builds, and the principles that work in a modern house can sometimes actively damage the older one.
As an eco and sustainable architect specialising in older homes, I've spent over twenty years helping my clients redesign their older homes so that they're warmer, more efficient, and better suited to the way they actually want to live, without losing what makes them special.
Sometimes the best answer is improving what you already have. Sometimes it's extending. Often it's a combination of both.
My job is to help you understand which approach will give you the best result before you commit to expensive building work.
With my Design Your Home Vision Programme, I take you through a structured process of exploring, testing and refining ideas before committing to a solution.
Old homes have character (but they also have draughts).
Some rooms get so uncomfortable in winter that you eventually stop using them.
You start avoiding parts of the house because they're too cold, too noisy, or too expensive to heat properly.
You run the heating longer, pay more, and still don't feel quite warm enough.
Eco design, done well, keeps your house warmer in winter, and cooler in summer. It becomes cheaper to run, and liveable in every room (no matter the time of year).
The challenge is that older homes need a different approach to new builds, and the principles that work in a modern house can sometimes actively damage the older one.
As an eco and sustainable architect specialising in older homes, I've spent over twenty years helping my clients redesign their older homes so that they're warmer, more efficient, and better suited to the way they actually want to live, without losing what makes them special.
Sometimes the best answer is improving what you already have. Sometimes it's extending. Often it's a combination of both.
My job is to help you understand which approach will give you the best result before you commit to expensive building work.
With my Design Your Home Vision Programme, I take you through a structured process of exploring, testing and refining ideas before committing to a solution.
Why older homes need a different approach
Older buildings were designed to breathe.
The walls absorb moisture and release it gradually, that's how lime mortar, solid brick, and stone construction manage damp. If you seal them up with modern materials designed for cavity walls and insulated frames, you trap that moisture inside.
The result is condensation, damp, and mould issues that can often be worse than before the work was done.
There's no point upgrading your boiler if heat is pouring out through the walls. The starting point has to be the building itself - the walls, roof, floor, windows. Reduce what's being lost, and you need far less energy to replace it.
I apply Passivhaus-inspired principles from the start of every project. That means looking at where heat escapes, how the building manages moisture, and where the light comes from before anything gets drawn.
For a period home, here's what that looks like in practice:
This is also why standard energy efficiency products designed for modern homes often aren't appropriate here. The materials and methods have to suit the building.
The walls absorb moisture and release it gradually, that's how lime mortar, solid brick, and stone construction manage damp. If you seal them up with modern materials designed for cavity walls and insulated frames, you trap that moisture inside.
The result is condensation, damp, and mould issues that can often be worse than before the work was done.
There's no point upgrading your boiler if heat is pouring out through the walls. The starting point has to be the building itself - the walls, roof, floor, windows. Reduce what's being lost, and you need far less energy to replace it.
I apply Passivhaus-inspired principles from the start of every project. That means looking at where heat escapes, how the building manages moisture, and where the light comes from before anything gets drawn.
For a period home, here's what that looks like in practice:
- Materials that manage moisture rather than trap it, such as natural fibre insulation, lime-based renders, and vapour-permeable membranes. These work with the building rather than against it.
- Paying careful attention to junctions where walls meet roofs, where floors meet external walls, and where windows sit within reveals. These are the places where heat escapes and damp gets in. Careful design closes those gaps without trapping moisture.
- Working with the sunlight you already have. A south-facing room with upgraded glazing can heat itself passively in winter. A north-facing room losing heat through single-glazed sashes is a different kind of problem. Understanding how sunlight moves through the house (and designing with that in mind) is often more effective than adding new technology.
This is also why standard energy efficiency products designed for modern homes often aren't appropriate here. The materials and methods have to suit the building.
The "Design Less, Better" Approach
Before you extend, it's worth asking whether the space you already have is working as hard as it could.
If you're at that stage of thinking, my free checklist is a good place to start.
A lot of period homes have rooms that stopped being used, because they're uncomfortably cold and draughty, or noisy from the road. The room is there, and the space is there. It just doesn't work the way it should.
If you're at that stage of thinking, my free checklist is a good place to start.
A lot of period homes have rooms that stopped being used, because they're uncomfortably cold and draughty, or noisy from the road. The room is there, and the space is there. It just doesn't work the way it should.
Case Study: Breathing New Life into an Unused Space
Recently I worked with clients who had a beautiful front living room they'd stopped using. It was cold and noisy, and the original sash windows with their gorgeous stained glass panels let in draughts from the street and noise from the traffic.
They were thinking about extending to the rear to create more space for dining and a dedicated room for music as they both played and wanted somewhere comfortable to play together.
Instead, I suggested we look at the front room differently. By adding secondary glazing internally to the sash windows, we cut the draughts and the road noise significantly without touching the stained glass or altering the windows from the street.
The room became warm and quiet enough to use properly. It became their music room.
We then redesigned the kitchen, dining room and pantry into one generous open-plan space for entertaining which worked beautifully for them as keen cooks who loved hosting.
Two problems solved, and no new extension required.
This reflects something I believe deeply about sustainable design. The most eco-friendly space is often one you don't have to build. Reduce, reuse, recycle - applied architecturally.
Solving the problem with what's already there can be better than building something new.
I'll tell you honestly if I think an extension isn't the right answer.
You can see more project examples here in my portfolio.
They were thinking about extending to the rear to create more space for dining and a dedicated room for music as they both played and wanted somewhere comfortable to play together.
Instead, I suggested we look at the front room differently. By adding secondary glazing internally to the sash windows, we cut the draughts and the road noise significantly without touching the stained glass or altering the windows from the street.
The room became warm and quiet enough to use properly. It became their music room.
We then redesigned the kitchen, dining room and pantry into one generous open-plan space for entertaining which worked beautifully for them as keen cooks who loved hosting.
Two problems solved, and no new extension required.
This reflects something I believe deeply about sustainable design. The most eco-friendly space is often one you don't have to build. Reduce, reuse, recycle - applied architecturally.
Solving the problem with what's already there can be better than building something new.
I'll tell you honestly if I think an extension isn't the right answer.
You can see more project examples here in my portfolio.
When an extension is the right answer
Sometimes an extension is the right answer.
When the space genuinely isn't there, or the configuration of the house can't be solved from the inside, an extension is the right solution.
In those cases, the same principles apply. Start with the building itself, use breathable materials, detail the junctions carefully, and think about where the light comes from before sketching designs.
An extension designed to these standards improves the whole home's performance, not just the new room.
You can read more here about how I approach house extensions.
When the space genuinely isn't there, or the configuration of the house can't be solved from the inside, an extension is the right solution.
In those cases, the same principles apply. Start with the building itself, use breathable materials, detail the junctions carefully, and think about where the light comes from before sketching designs.
An extension designed to these standards improves the whole home's performance, not just the new room.
You can read more here about how I approach house extensions.
Eco extension to an older farmhouse, combining new living space with further improvements to the home's energy performance, including replacing oil heating with an air source heat pump.
Eco design in conservation areas and with listed buildings
Conservation Areas
In a conservation area, what counts as permitted development depends on the area's character appraisal, but many of the most effective eco improvements don't require planning permission at all.
Internal roof insulation, upgrading a heating system, improving airtightness at floor level, and - in most conservation areas - secondary glazing, can all be done without approval.
Where the original windows are still in place, it's also sometimes possible to add sealed double-glazed panels within the existing frame, improving performance without altering the appearance from the street.
Often, the approach that protects an old building is also the approach that improves it sustainably.
If your home is listed or in a conservation area (or close to a listed building or ancient monument) the rules around extension and renovations are tighter than on a standard house.
This applies even if your own home is modern. I've worked on projects built in the 1960s and 80s that fell under these constraints simply because of what was nearby.
In a conservation area, what counts as permitted development depends on the area's character appraisal, but many of the most effective eco improvements don't require planning permission at all.
Internal roof insulation, upgrading a heating system, improving airtightness at floor level, and - in most conservation areas - secondary glazing, can all be done without approval.
Where the original windows are still in place, it's also sometimes possible to add sealed double-glazed panels within the existing frame, improving performance without altering the appearance from the street.
Often, the approach that protects an old building is also the approach that improves it sustainably.
If your home is listed or in a conservation area (or close to a listed building or ancient monument) the rules around extension and renovations are tighter than on a standard house.
This applies even if your own home is modern. I've worked on projects built in the 1960s and 80s that fell under these constraints simply because of what was nearby.
Listed Buildings
Listed buildings are a different matter.
Almost every change (including internal ones like adding insulation) requires listed building consent.
The scope for improvement is narrower, and the design and approval process is more intensive.
The most straightforward intervention for a listed building is repair with like materials: lime plaster, lime mortar, like-for-like replacement of original fabric.
Some eco improvements are achievable, but they require careful judgement and a thorough understanding of what will and won't be approved.
Listed buildings are a different matter.
Almost every change (including internal ones like adding insulation) requires listed building consent.
The scope for improvement is narrower, and the design and approval process is more intensive.
The most straightforward intervention for a listed building is repair with like materials: lime plaster, lime mortar, like-for-like replacement of original fabric.
Some eco improvements are achievable, but they require careful judgement and a thorough understanding of what will and won't be approved.
Hiring the right architect for your home
This is where having the right architect makes all the difference. Having someone in your corner who knows what needs approval, what doesn't, and how to argue for what you want when it does.
Most eco architects don't have deep conservation expertise, and most conservation architects don't do eco design.
I do both, and having this knowledge and experience is important because the materials that work best for sustainable design in old buildings are often the same materials that conservation requires.
I'm an RIBA Accredited Conservation Registrant, trained with the Green Register in eco-refurbishment, and currently completing my retrofit coordinator qualification, a combination of qualifications that's rare in residential architects. You can read more about my background here.
My sweet spot is working on homes in conservation areas, where there are restrictions, but the work is very achievable with the right knowledge.
If you have a listed building, I can help. It's worth a conversation first to make sure I'm the right fit for what you need, and it's a good idea to start with the free Q&A.
This is where having the right architect makes all the difference. Having someone in your corner who knows what needs approval, what doesn't, and how to argue for what you want when it does.
Most eco architects don't have deep conservation expertise, and most conservation architects don't do eco design.
I do both, and having this knowledge and experience is important because the materials that work best for sustainable design in old buildings are often the same materials that conservation requires.
I'm an RIBA Accredited Conservation Registrant, trained with the Green Register in eco-refurbishment, and currently completing my retrofit coordinator qualification, a combination of qualifications that's rare in residential architects. You can read more about my background here.
My sweet spot is working on homes in conservation areas, where there are restrictions, but the work is very achievable with the right knowledge.
If you have a listed building, I can help. It's worth a conversation first to make sure I'm the right fit for what you need, and it's a good idea to start with the free Q&A.
Eco retrofit in a conservation area. The project included a new airtight, breathable roof with sheep's wool insulation, reinstatement of lost historic roof details and a solar PV array. The roof was also designed to accommodate future external wall insulation, although permission for the external insulation and render was refused at appeal.
My eco-architectural approach
Design Your Home Vision Programme
The Design Your Home Vision Programme gives you a clear way to work through the decisions that shape your home, before committing to design, planning applications, or building work.
Instead of guessing, reacting to ideas online or rushing into layouts, you'll get to test out ideas and trial them properly. This means that you don't end up spending time and money on the wrong design solution.
You'll explore what isn't working - for example, the rooms that are too cold, too noisy, the spaces that have stopped being used.
What do you actually need from this home, for the way you live now and the way you'd like to live?
For older homes, this includes a careful look at the building itself and which features are causing problems and possibly need to be changed.
For homes in a conservation area or with listed building status, we'd start by looking at the conservation area character appraisal or the listed building description. This information is publicly available and helps us to understand what's significant before we start exploring options.
This stage creates the design brief. It sets targets and gives us both clarity on what we're trying to achieve.
What it doesn't do is give you definitive answers on what's achievable at planning or which spatial solutions are possible - that comes with the Design Day.
Find out more about the Vision Programme here.
The Design Your Home Vision Programme gives you a clear way to work through the decisions that shape your home, before committing to design, planning applications, or building work.
Instead of guessing, reacting to ideas online or rushing into layouts, you'll get to test out ideas and trial them properly. This means that you don't end up spending time and money on the wrong design solution.
You'll explore what isn't working - for example, the rooms that are too cold, too noisy, the spaces that have stopped being used.
What do you actually need from this home, for the way you live now and the way you'd like to live?
For older homes, this includes a careful look at the building itself and which features are causing problems and possibly need to be changed.
For homes in a conservation area or with listed building status, we'd start by looking at the conservation area character appraisal or the listed building description. This information is publicly available and helps us to understand what's significant before we start exploring options.
This stage creates the design brief. It sets targets and gives us both clarity on what we're trying to achieve.
What it doesn't do is give you definitive answers on what's achievable at planning or which spatial solutions are possible - that comes with the Design Day.
Find out more about the Vision Programme here.
Design Day
During your Design Day, I create sketch design options focused on the use of the space in your home.
Things like how to create the right amount of space in the right places, based on your vision and the way you actually want to live.
I apply Passivhaus-inspired thinking from the start. Where the light comes from, how the building holds heat, which walls and windows need the most attention.
I also factor in conservation and planning implications, where relevant.
By the end of the day, you have a set of sketch designs of the vision for your house, and a clear picture of what's involved to make a decision you feel confident about.
We then go through a feasibility stage together.
We look at your options, work out what additional information you might need - surveys, structural assessments, heritage reports - to get you real clarity on what's achievable.
During your Design Day, I create sketch design options focused on the use of the space in your home.
Things like how to create the right amount of space in the right places, based on your vision and the way you actually want to live.
I apply Passivhaus-inspired thinking from the start. Where the light comes from, how the building holds heat, which walls and windows need the most attention.
I also factor in conservation and planning implications, where relevant.
By the end of the day, you have a set of sketch designs of the vision for your house, and a clear picture of what's involved to make a decision you feel confident about.
We then go through a feasibility stage together.
We look at your options, work out what additional information you might need - surveys, structural assessments, heritage reports - to get you real clarity on what's achievable.
You can watch this 1 minute video to see how I created sketch designs to explore different options for a Victorian terrace:
Design Packages
Once you're clear on the direction, the next stages take the design through to planning application and then building control.
Eco specifications and material choices can be carried through to the full design. The comfort efficiency goals we define together in the Vision Programme (like feeling more comfortable in your home, or not feeling draughts in a specific room) can shape the specification your builder works to, if those are still the priorities that matter to you as the design develops.
The two packages I offer are the 3D Design Package (design development through to planning) and the Build Package (construction drawings, building control, and getting a contract in place with a contractor).
How much involvement you want beyond the Vision Programme depends on your situation, budget, and the type of service you're looking for.
Once you're clear on the direction, the next stages take the design through to planning application and then building control.
Eco specifications and material choices can be carried through to the full design. The comfort efficiency goals we define together in the Vision Programme (like feeling more comfortable in your home, or not feeling draughts in a specific room) can shape the specification your builder works to, if those are still the priorities that matter to you as the design develops.
The two packages I offer are the 3D Design Package (design development through to planning) and the Build Package (construction drawings, building control, and getting a contract in place with a contractor).
How much involvement you want beyond the Vision Programme depends on your situation, budget, and the type of service you're looking for.
Frequently asked questions about sustainable homes and eco retrofit
Can a Victorian house be made energy efficient?
Yes, significantly. Victorian homes can be made much warmer, cheaper to run, and more comfortable to live in.
What they can't always match is the performance of a new build, and some original features (chimneys are the obvious one) do limit what's possible.
The key is to start with the building itself by improving insulation, fixing draughts, and choosing materials that work with old walls and floors rather than trapping moisture in them. Done well, you can make a real difference without compromising the character of the house.
What makes a sustainable home?
A sustainable home uses less energy to stay comfortable, produces fewer emissions, and is adapted in a way that works with its existing structure rather than against it.
For a period home, that means starting with the fabric of the building.
Insulation, airtightness, and materials that manage moisture come before technology like heat pumps or solar panels. Comfort and efficiency come first and the environmental benefits follow from those.
What is eco retrofit and is it right for my period home?
Eco retrofit means improving an existing home's energy performance and comfort - insulating the roof, upgrading windows, focusing on draughtproofing, and then upgrading the heating system once those improvements are in place.
For period homes, the approach has to suit the building, and you often can't use the same products you'd use in a modern house.
We can add secondary glazing, or upgrade the existing windows by refurbishing them, adding draught proofing and sometimes it's possible to replace single glazing with a double glazed sealed unit if the frame is deep enough (although this isn't always permitted).
Small material choices can also make a surprising difference to comfort. I often suggest cork flooring when clients tell me a room is too cold to walk barefoot in, as it's an eco-friendly material with insulative properties that feels noticeably warmer underfoot than tiles.
A well-designed eco retrofit delivers real, noticeable improvement in comfort and running costs (warmer in winter, quieter, cheaper to heat) at a cost that makes sense for your home and your budget.
It's also possible to create a long term plan for incremental upgrades so that you can gradually improve the energy performance starting with the most impactful but also taking into account finances.
When a staged approach is taken then it's critical that the stages are designed in a way that doesn't cause later problems.
For example you would need to look at window replacement and external wall insulation together because the windows and the wall interact. If they're done separately it can be problematic at the junctions.
These are all things I take into consideration when working on your home.
I tend not to work on projects that are purely technical retrofits, as I add the most value when the space and how it's designed architecturally are also being considered.
But if you're not sure yet what you need, the Vision Programme is a good starting point. It helps you work out what would make the biggest difference to your home, and I can point you towards the right specialists for any work that sits outside my scope.
How does sustainable design work in a conservation area?
Sustainable design works well in conservation areas because many of the most effective eco improvements don't require planning permission at all.
Secondary glazing, roof insulation from the inside, draught-proofing at floor level, and like-for-like heating upgrades often don't require planning approval even in a conservation area.
Switching to a different type of heating system (for example, a heat pump, solar thermal, or other renewables) is more complicated, as these typically involve external changes that will need approval.
Where approval is needed, having an architect with conservation expertise makes a real difference.
I understand both what the planning authority is trying to protect and what the building needs to perform better. Those goals align more often than people expect, and where they don't, I'll argue for what you want and negotiate or appeal if needed.
Do eco extensions need planning permission?
In planning terms, an eco extension is no different from any other kind of extension. Whether you need permission depends on the size, the location, and whether your home has any special designations.
A standard extension on an ordinary residential property may fall within permitted development, meaning no application is needed.
But if you're in a conservation area, have a listed building, or your local authority has removed permitted development rights, you'll almost certainly need to apply. However, taking an eco-approach to your extension design is likely to help you gain approval.
How do I find an architect who specialises in sustainable design for period homes?
You want an architect who holds both an understanding of how old buildings work technically, and the conservation knowledge to design improvements that won't damage the building or run into planning problems.
But mostly, you want an architect who understands that architectural conservation is mostly about making good balanced decisions.
They need to find the right strategic approach that considers what are in many ways competing requirements, and then figure out what is the best solution to protect, preserve and enhance the building and its historic significance, while making it more modern and liveable.
It's about making changes that enable the buildings to be used and enjoyed for now and the future.
It's worth asking specifically about your architect's experience with period homes and conservation areas, asking to see relevant case studies, and checking credentials.
Jane Leach is an Award-winning Chartered Architect | 20+ years experience | 100+ homes redesigned | RIBA-accredited Conservation Registrant | Green Register trained Eco-Refurbisher
all content copyright to Jane Leach chartered architect and iarchitect Limited 2009 - 2026
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iarchitect Limited company number: 10621333